Lupin Frangy "Cuvée de Pepe" '21

Domaine Lupin is a small family domaine based in the village of Frangy, in the Savoie, about 35 minutes southwest of Geneva. This is a region best known for white wines of brightness, alpine freshness, and mineral precision, and few producers capture that character more beautifully than Bruno Lupin.

Bruno and his family farm five hectares of vines on a hillside known as Les Aricoques, a site he considers among the finest in the region. The vineyard benefits from full southern exposure, while its relatively low altitude helps protect it from the cold northern winds that can be so challenging in this alpine landscape. The soils are molasse, a crumbly calcareous formation created by ancient mountain erosion, and they give the wines their distinctive tension and stony character.

The vineyards at Domaine Lupin are farmed organically and harvested by hand. In the cellar, fermentations take place with native yeasts, and the wines are handled with a quiet confidence that reflects the quality of the farming. While many growers in the region choose to de-acidify, Bruno has no need to do so, a testament to the balance he achieves in the vineyard.

If you have not yet tried Altesse, this is the bottle to change that. Also known locally as Roussette, Altesse is one of the great indigenous white varieties of the Savoie, and it reaches a particularly compelling expression in Frangy. Bruno’s “Cuvée du Pépé” is the top white wine of the domaine, produced in tiny quantities from vines over 60 years old in Les Aricoques.

The 2021 is the current release, and it is already showing remarkable complexity. The nose is captivating, with a cool suggestion of mint alongside notes of orange, peach skin, white flowers, and crushed stone. What truly sets the wine apart, though, is its texture and length. It has vibrant acidity, but also real mid-palate weight, a subtle phenolic grip, and a long, saline finish marked by oyster shell, citrus, and mineral drive. There are some Grand Cru Chablis that would be lucky to have this much clarity and depth.

Given both the minerality and texture of this wine, I would move beyond the most delicate seafood preparations and pair it with something a bit more luxurious, such as crab tagliatelle with lemon cream.